Waimanu

Our adventure to Waimanu

On our way home - Z trail overlooking Waipio

Let me start by explaining that the trip to Waimanu was one of the most physically demanding and challenging things I have ever done...ever in my life.  I am not a physically fit or active person.  And I severely underestimated the ruthlessness of this trip.  

To get to Waimanu Valley, you must hike through Waipio Valley, up the Z-trail on the side of a mountain, cross 2 rivers, and traverse rocks the entire 9 grueling miles.  

Make sure to pack plenty of water for the grueling hike.  You can find water once you get to Waimanu (hiking for 15 minutes or so past campsite 9).  Make sure to bring some type of water purification system or tablets.  We arrived at dark and were out of water.  To get to the water source, we passed multiple large boars.  Plus the footing up to the water spicket (climbing up wet rocks) was a little scary at night.

Once in Waimanu, there wasn't as much firewood as I would have expected.  It's obvious that people camp there on a fairly regular basis.  We brought a camp stove with butane and that was a great idea.   Try to pack as light as possible but don't skimp on the food.  We packed tuna fish packets, jerky  protein bars, couscous, and a few dehydrated meals.  I bought some dried salami that didn't need refrigeration    It was delicious.  We also packed those Starbucks instant coffee packets - they were great.  

When packing, there are many things to consider.  Pack light but be prepared. Here's a list of some of the items I found most valuable:

• Camp stove with butane
• Lighters
• Bug spray (small bottle)
• Sunscreen
• Water  
• Iodine water purification tablets
• Neosporin 
• Hand sanitizer and camp soap (which I used to wash dishes and my hair)
• A great wind & water proof tent  (it was very windy and rained our second night;  our tent was from REI and was wonderful.  My friends bought a cheap tent from walmart and they were soaked and had to get up in the middle of the night to put rocks in the sides of the tent to hold it down.  REI was definitely the way to go)
• A lightweight sleeping bag or blanket (I bought a NorthFace summer sleeping bag - it never gets that cold in Hawaii - maybe the low 60s at night year round)
• A camping pillow (after the brutal hike, you'll want a good night's sleep)
• A thermarest (although these are a little expensive, I highly recommend. They're lightweight and durable.  Easy to pack and more comfortable than pool floats or air mattresses.   Our friends brought pool floats and they popped the first night.  The ground is really hard so I'd splurge on this)
• Toilet paper (there are outhouses but I wouldn't use the toilet paper - if there is any.  The outhouses are quite disgusting and I'd recommend opening the door and beating on the door frame for a minute as there were TONS of bugs)
• Headlights or flashlights of some sort
• Aleve or Ibuprofen
• Camera
• Cellphone (although you will not have any service after the top of the Z-trail out of Waimanu, I have been told that if there's any emergency - you can use the emergency call button to obtain satellite service to make an emergency call;  fortunately never had to try but just in case...)
• Rope (to make a clothesline and dry all of your clothing)
• Hiking backpack (we used NorthFace packs that you can buy at Sports Authority; I highly recommend these packs for their ability to disperse weight.  PACK LIGHT)

We did not bring - but I really wish we had - some type of blister repair.  I wore a pair of Merrell's Hiking Shoes and my feet were covered in blisters.  My friends wore five - fingers shoes and they also had blisters.  I think the five - fingers may've been a better way to go only because they're waterproof.  

Any time you camp in Hawaii- DO NOT LEAVE YOUR SHOES OUTSIDE!   Centipedes love dark places so make sure to keep your shoes in the tent, the tent zipped, and beat your shoes before putting them on.   

Would I ever hike to Waimanu again?  Absolutely not.  It was beautiful.  I'm glad I did it.  But I completely underestimated the difficulty involved.  It took me several days to recover.  

While we camped, there were a few others out there (which I was surprised).  We were the only people who had a permit.   I cannot imagine anyone checking the permit while you're there but I'd hate to hike all that way and then get kicked out.  Plus it's nice to reserve your campsite.   

Here are some pictures from our trip:

This is the first water crossing out of Waimanu - it apparently
wasn't that deep on the day we  left.  The current was a little strong. 

Another view of the first water crossing

Part of the trail

Thankfully, we were almost there.
 One of our first glimpses in to Waimanu Valley

It was a magically beautiful area

This is the last water crossing (heading in to Waimanu).  There's a nice rope
 that was stretched over the water to help keep your balance.
  Be careful here too - the current was also a little strong.  

This is our campsite complete with our REI tent and a clothesline that our friends brought.
 I'm fairly certain we stayed at campsite 2
 (our friends had been there before and knew which site was best)

Some of the outhouses 

Another view of the rope stretched over the water heading in to Waimanu

One of the waterfalls

A nice view of the valley

Another view of our campsite

Outhouses

During the hike, you'll pass 4 emergency helipads.   When we got to the first, I actually cried.
 I couldn't believe we still had 7 miles to go.  I was already exhausted.  

Finally - the 4th helipad

The black sand beach in Waimanu - past campsite 9

I was told the distance is measured from the start of the Z trail.
 If you have to hike the 1 1/2 miles from the top  of
 Waipio to the Z trail - that's in addition to these miles.   

A view of Waipio from the Z trail - note the steep road out of
Waipio on the side of the mountain

Part of the trail

Big Island Part III - Best Restaurants

My favorite restaurants

If you ask my favorite restaurant on the island - I'll tell you that hands down it's Kona Brewing Company.  Located just off Ali'i in Kona, there food is, by far, some of the best on the island (especially when considering taste vs. value).  Plus you get to sample all the Kona Brewing Company Beer.   They have free Brewery Tours where you'll be treated to free samples of their beer.  My favorite thing on the menu - the Buffalo Chicken Sandwich.  YUM.   But I haven't really had anything there that wasn't ono (good).  

A little holiday cheer at KBC

Here's a list of my favorite restaurants:  

Kona

• Huggo's on the Rock's:  great drinks and happy hour specials; excellent location; plus the kalua pork is pretty awesome
• Humpy's:  basically I just like the location and the bar selection; they often have live music; food is ok
• Fish Hopper:  pretty decent fish tacos 
• Scandinavian Shaved Ice:  you MUST try the shaved ice with ice cream in the middle.  What an awesome treat!
• Bongo Benny's:  best breakfast in town and their bloody mary is pretty great; try the eggs benny 
• Kona Brewing Company:  Best in town.  Hands down.  Yum.  I'd recommend the buffalo chicken sandwich or Kalua pork sandwich.  They also have pizza, fish, etc...
• Sam Choy's:  Located in the Keauhou Shopping Center, you have a great view from any place in the restaurant.  The food is excellent but a little expensive.  

Hawi

• Bamboo:  excellent flavors but a little pricey
• Sushi Rock:  really creative sushi rolls;  very fresh;  awesome drinks but a little pricey 

Waikoloa

• Merrimen's:  I was not impressed.  It was over priced and the portions were wimpy.  Plus my steak was terrible.  The service was terrible.  The fish was over cooked.  I will never go back.  
• Roy's:  bring a sweatshirt because it was a little chilly inside.  The food was great.  The drinks were great.  The Ahi Sashimi was amazing.  Expect to spend a pretty penny. 
• Sensei Sushi:  Excellent; love it;  plus sitting at the sushi bar is a fun time 

Hilo

• Pond's:  One of the best pieces of fish I've ever had in my life (Macadamia Nut Pesto crusted Mahi) came from this restaurant.  Unfortunately, the food isn't always consistent but when it's good, it's really good.  They have a great drink menu and during happy hour (2 - 5), the drinks aren't too pricey.  Plus it's not a bad location. 
• Cafe Pesto:  Many people in Hilo seem to love this place.  I've been multiple times and I've never been impressed.  I'm not impressed by the menu or the food.  It's not terrible; just not spectacular.  
• Hilo Burger Joint:  When they aren't busy, they have amazing burgers.  If they are busy, go somewhere else because the food quality suffers terribly.  They have a great beer selection and the atmosphere is great.  
• Hilo Hawaiian Queen's Court Restaurant:  the weekend buffet is incredible!   At around $39/person, you get all you can eat seafood, prime rib, crab legs, etc... and all you can drink beer and wine.  It's not a bad deal.  
• Big Island Pizza:  I love their pizza.  Plus the delivery is usually pretty quick and they consistently do a great job.  
• Full Moon Cafe:  Thai food that is pretty decent.   I love the pineapple curry.  I have friends who rave about their pineapple fried rice but I haven't tried that one yet. 
• Seaside:  most people consider The Seaside a very high-end Hilo restaurant.  I consider it extremely overpriced.  I have gotten sick from the fish there twice and will never go back.  The last time I ate there my fish was sitting in olive oil - bland, greasy olive oil.  I didn't complain - just ate my meal as I was paying around $35 for the dish.  I wish I'd just left it sitting on the plate because I was miserable the rest of the night. This happened the first time I ate there in 2010 as well.  Maybe it's just some weird fluke or just me, but I don't care to take that chance.  
• Short 'n Sweet Bakery:  Wow - they have amazing sandwiches and pastries.  They have a BLTA (bacon, lettuce, tomato & avocado) sandwich that is probably the best sandwich I've ever eaten.  They make their bread fresh daily.  It's incredible bread.  It's just a great place to get lunch.  I wish they'd extend their hours.  

Big Island Part II - Where to stay

Where to stay on the Big Island of Hawaii

As I've mentioned before, if you're coming to the Big Island, you need a rental car.  In my previous post, I also mentioned there are two airports on the big island:  Kona (KOA) and Hilo (ITO).   Let's discuss a few of the main towns where one might consider staying (if it's not on this list...)

• Kona - probably the most well known and tourist friendly town on the big island.   There is much to do and see in Kona.  Kona would probably be one of my top choices for places to stay when booking a hotel.  
• Hilo - the biggest city on the island but the hotels and other accommodations aren't the greatest.   There is also a lack of great restaurants and nightlife in Hilo.  The beaches are not the beaches you hope to visit when you think of visiting Hawaii and it rains nearly every day.  That being said - plan to visit Hilo at least once during your trip.  It's a beautiful town full of lush greenery and many traditional Hawaiian customs.  More on attractions to come. 
• Kohala (this would include Hawi) - about 1 1/2 hours from either airport, this is a great area but more of a "country" setting; there are a few small shops and restaurants that are great and it's a romantic setting but if you're looking for an exciting place to stay with lots to do, Kohala may not be the best place
• Waikoloa - about 30 - 45 minutes from Kona, Waikoloa is amazing.  There are some incredible resorts set on breath taking white sand beaches.  There are several small shopping centers and some incredible restaurants.  If I were visiting - I would definitely stay in Waikoloa (as long as money was no object).  Waikoloa can be a little more expensive than Kona but you're right on the best beaches. 

My preference - definitely stay in either Waikoloa or Kona.  If you have the opportunity to travel around the island, spend most of your time in Waikoloa and Kona, a day or two in Kohala/Hawi, and two days in Hilo (Wednesdays and Saturdays are the farmers' market so those are great days to be in Hilo).  

If money is a concern, there are plenty of ways to save while staying on the big island.  First, there are many lodges and B&Bs that offer extremely affordable rates.  Here are a few that I know of with a general idea of price as of Jan 2013:

• Kona - Uncle Billy's:  great location right on Ali'i drive; they usually have availability and the accommodations aren't bad.  There's a pool and complimentary breakfast from 06:30 a.m. - 08:30 a.m.   Rates are usually around $78/night but this depends on season and if there's anything special in town
• Kohala / Hawi - Kohala Club Inn:  I have not personally stayed there but several friends stay there on a regular basis when traveling around the island and say it's a nice little B&B type place.  Plus it's only around $60/night
• Hilo - Arnett's Lodge:  not far from the beaches or the airport.  Once again, I haven't stayed there but a nurse friend of mine stayed there for several weeks.  Must not be too bad.  Rates around $30/night per person.  
• Waikoloa - Hilton Waikoloa or Waikoloa Marriott:  both are very nice and you can't go wrong; you'll be staying in a luxurious resort.  Rates around $200/night

One of the Happy Campers VW vans from Hilo, HI

Don't forget to check online for deals, B&Bs and vacation rentals by owners.  There is also camping.  Hawaii is a great place to camp if you have a decent rain-proof, wind-proof tent.  Camping gear can be rented for pretty cheap.  Plus, there is a company in Hilo that rents VW vans that are RV-ish.  I see them all over the island.  I've considered renting one myself.  

Many of the best camping spots require a permit - which can be purchased online.  Here are some of my favorite camping spots:

• Ho'okena - south of Kona and close to Captain Cook / Two Step, this is a great spot to camp.  There are bathrooms, you're right on the beach, and everyone is pretty relaxed.  You often wake up in the morning and see dolphins.  You can purchase your permit online or pay the night you set up to camp.  It's usually around $6 / person.  
• Miloli'i - south of Kona;  this is the "last fishing village" and was wiped out by lava a few years ago.  It's a beautiful area but I always feel like the park is right in the middle of town and therefore never feel comfortable camping there.   Requires a permit and costs around $6 / person

Miloli'i

• Whittington Beach Park - southern part of the island; This is a pretty nice park.  I have visited but never camped there.  Does require a permit.

Whittington

• Makalawena - as I mentioned in a previous blog, Makalawena is the most beautiful beach on the island in my opinion.  You can camp (on the north side of the gate in the coral area).  It does not require a permit and is therefore free.  The only disadvantage is that unless you have a tough 4WD with high clearance, you'll have to hike around a mile with all your gear to get to there.  Makalawena is located between mile markers 88 & 89 on Hwy 19.  This is still one of my favorite camping spots and if you go during the week, you'll probably have it to yourself.  Just make sure to bring a thermarest or air mattress - you'll be sleeping on coral.  

 

Makalawena

• Pololu - located in North Kohala, this is a place where I'm not really sure if you're supposed to camp, but people do, I have, and it's never an issue.  No permit required.  Pololu is about a mile hike down a steep trail (which you'll have to hike back up in the morning) to a beautiful black sand beach.  It's secluded and amazing.  Keep your tent zipped at all times to prevent centipedes from entering and keep your shoes inside your tent.  Make sure to check in your shoes before putting them on.  Centipedes like to hide in them and those demons have nasty bites.   

• Spencer - located north of Kona, this is a popular camping area.  Requires a permit and costs around $6 / person.  It's usually pretty packed but there are nice shower facilities and in a pretty good location close to Hapuna.  
• Hapuna - I have never camped there.  Requires a permit and they have A-frames.  Clearly it's a great location though.  
• Waimanu - I am dedicating an entire blog to our trip to Waimanu but I'll just say that Waimanu is GORGEOUS but very difficult to get to.  It requires an entire day of hiking and you must be very prepared with great equipment.  You must hike through Waipio Valley to get there.  See the Waimanu blog for more information.  

If you have any questions about where to stay - just ask.  I'll try to help answer.  

Big Island Part I - Beaches

Hawai'i Island  (The Big Island)

Hopefully, this will you give you a little more insight about the island and help you plan the best way to spend your vacation.  My recommendation - don't try to plan every day to the max.  Take time to see the island and you'll find plenty to do.  There are two main airports on the island:   Kona (KOA) and Hilo (ITO).  It is usually much cheaper to fly in to Kona and there's more to do in Kona.  If I had to plan my vacation  - I would plan to spend most of my time on Kona side (or at a resort in Waikoloa which is half an hour from Kona airport).  Regardless of where you decide to spend your time - you NEED a rental car in Hawaii.  

Many people come to Hawaii Island and are disappointed by the beaches.  Most of the beaches aren't the white sandy beaches you are used to seeing in the movies and the water isn't always as calm as the water in Florida.  If the surf is up - BE VERY CAUTIOUS.   Just a little tip worth knowing, ALL BEACHES IN HAWAII ARE PUBLIC.   Therefore, you can go to any beach or any resort and let them know you are there for public beach access.  With that said, here is a list of some of my favorite beaches on the island:

• Hapuna - North of Kona on Hwy 19 (probably 45 minutes); well worth the drive;  white sandy beaches and great place to boogie board; life guards on duty but if the surf is up, be prepared to sit on the beach (but it's a really nice beach); can be crowded on weekends and holidays

• Anaeho-omalu Beach (otherwise known as A-Bay) - located at the Waikoloa resorts north of Kona off Hwy 19, this is a nice white sandy beach as well

• Beach 69 at Waialea Bay (known as 69s) - located at mile marker 69 off Hwy 19 north of Kona, another white sandy beach with decent surf and good reef for snorkeling; many shady spots 

• Makalawena - located north of Kona off Hwy 19 between mile markers 88 & 89 this is the most beautiful beach on the island in my opinion; pristine white sand and very secluded; from Hwy 19 - it's a good 45 minute hike to the beach

 

Beaches on the Hilo side of the island do not have white sand - but black sand and lava rock.  Here are a few that aren't too bad if you happen to be on that side of the island:

• Richardson Beach - the most popular beach on Hilo side with the locals; if you go on the weekend - expect there to be a crowd; good snorkeling and you often see turtles; life guards on duty 

• Carlsmith Beach (known by the locals as Four Mile) - pretty nice area for kids that is protected by reef from the surf and, like all the beaches on Hilo side, will be very busy on the weekend; life guards on duty  

• Honoli'i - a favorite place for surfing by locals; great place to boogie board; this is a fun beach to sit and watch the locals but not a place to swim

Basic Hawaiian Island Information

I moved to the Hawaiian Islands in July 2012.  Like most people, I didn't know much about the islands - having only visited once before my move.  Friends and family ask me for advice on their Hawaiian vacation plans on a fairly regular basis so I thought I'd provide a little basic Hawaii education.  

As most people know, Hawaii is an island chain.  Most people vacation on the islands of Oahu and Maui.  If you decide to visit multiple islands on your trip - rest assured each island holds its own unique treasures.   In order to "island hop," you will either need to take a cruise ship or book a flight.   Flights can range from $100 - $300 round trip.   

Here is a little information about each island:

Oahu

Probably the most visited of all the Hawaiian islands.   Oahu has the largest cities and most well known beaches of the islands.  With that being said, if you are looking for an experience in Hawaii that is less "touristy" and more "true Hawaii," I wouldn't visit Oahu.   I was not impressed.   It felt like any big city with pretty beaches.  I felt like Honolulu was very crowded and a little dirty.   Waikiki was pretty but there are much prettier beaches in Hawaii.  If you are visiting Oahu - there will be plenty of fun things to do.  Here are some of the cities, beaches and other destinations that can be found on Oahu:

• Honolulu - the most well known Hawaiian City
• Waikiki - one of the most well known Hawaiian beaches
• USS Arizona Memorial
• The Polynesian Cultural Center
• North Shore of Oahu (some of the best surfing in the world)

Maui

Ask most people which island is their favorite and they'll tell you Maui.  Like Oahu, Maui is well known to tourists with its white, sandy beaches and beautiful resorts.   Also known as the valley isle, Maui is the second largest of the Hawaiian Islands.  This popular stop for US and Canadian tourists has been named the Best Island in the World by the travel industry. Some of the attractions on Maui include:

• Road to Hana - scenic route along the east coast passing black sand beaches and waterfalls
• Lahaina - popular Maui city for tourists
• Haleakala National Park - home to the dormant volcano Haleakala 

Kauai

Known as the "garden isle,"  Kauai is the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands.   It is only 562 square miles.   Certain areas on Kauai are among the wettest on earth with an average yearly rainfall of 460 inches.  Chickens can be seen running free on much of the island.  Some of the most popular destinations include:

• Waimea Canyon State Park - one of the world's most scenic canyons
• Kapa'a - largest city in Kauai 
• Na Pali Coast - center for wild recreation including kayaking 
• Lihu'e - city on the southeast coast

Molokai

Previously an area used to quarantine people with Hansen's Disease (leprosy), Molokai is now viewed as a sacred place by Roman Catholics.   This is one of only two sites in the US where a Roman Catholic Saint resided; and the only single site in which two Saints resided  (both Saint Damien and Saint Marianne resided in the Kalaupapa Colony caring for the patients with Hansen's Disease).  Not a big tourist destination.   

Lana'i

The smallest of the publicly accessible Hawaiian Islands and known as "Pineapple Island."  Most of the island requires a 4 wheel drive vehicle to get around and there are no traffic lights on the entire island.  Bill Gates was married on Lanai.  Some of the tourist destinations of Lanai:

• Lana'i City - the only notable town
• Shipwreck Beach - you can see the remains of a shipwrecked WWII vessel

Hawai'i (Also known as the Big Island)

Hawaii Island is my favorite island and the island I have lived on for the last year.  This is the biggest of the islands at 4028 square miles.  It is also the southern most point in the United States.  There is so much to do and see on Hawaii Island.   Hawaii Island is comprised of 5 volcanoes   

• Kohala - extinct
• Mauna Kea - dormant
• Hualalai - active but currently dormant
• Mauna Loa - active 
• Kilauea - active and has been erupting since 1983

Hawaii Island is home to some of the world's most amazing telescopes and astronomy programs as well as the largest cattle ranch in the US (175,000 acres).   If all you want to do on your vacation is sit on a white sand beach and sip pina coladas - Hawaii Island may not be your best bet.   But if you're looking for an amazing adventure with some beautiful scenery, interesting beaches, and sights you'll see no where else in the world - Hawaii Island is where you should consider touring.  (Hawaii Island is also considerably less expensive than Oahu or Maui.)  Some of the sights I'd highly recommend on Hawaii Island can be seen in my next blog. There's just too much to include on this page.   You'll also see some pictures of my adventures.